After waking up from the previous night's events, I quickly handed in my grades and was taken to the train station to catch a train to Beijing. The train ride was uneventful. but then I had to figure out how to get to the airport from the station. I texted Jeremy and asked him how to get to the airport, so with his help and the signs in English, I took the subway to the airport express line, which costs 25 yuan ($4). I tried to check in, but since my flight was not for many hours, the staff told me to wait. During that time, I wandered around, sat, and then when it was close to mealtime, I had a dinner at the Yoshinoya's. It was ok and they had Wifi, so I hung around the restaurant for another hour after I had finished my meal.
It was finally time for me to check-in. After being shuffled around between different check-in windows, I finally got to one and the lady asked for my passport. Then she asked for my visa. Apparently I had not done my research and Australia is one of the few major allies of the US that requires a visa. At this point, I was freaking out, trying to figure out what to do. Thankfully, I had my laptop and Beijing International has free Wifi. I quickly got online and was granted an electronic visa. It cost me 20AUD and a lot of stress, but it worked and I was able to get my tickets. After rushing through security, I was able to collect myself and breathe a little easier. So lesson learned.
I had a layover in Guangzhou, so the second part (the train being the first) was not bad. The airplane food was tolerable (but hot) and I had my own screen and many movies from which I could select. I watched Up, since I had not seen it in a while and it was the perfect length of the flight. Upon arriving to Guangzhou, I tried to find the gate for the flight to Melbourne. But it was closed off. I did, however, notice another girl who was on the same fight trying to get to her gate. We ended up talking and her name is Vivian. Since she is Chinese, she was able to communicate better with the airport staff. Turns out because we got in so late and our flights were not until the morning, the airport had booked us rooms at a nearby hotel. So we were happy. But we had to wait around for the driver to come get us. In southern China, it is not uncommon for dinner to be at 2 or 3 in the morning. Our driver to the hotel was at such a dinner and so we waited until about 3:30am. Our flights were at 8, so we knew we would only get a few hours of sleep. Finally our driver came and we went to the hotel. Vivian and I shared a room and got a few hours of sleep before we went back to the airport. The hotel did provide a small breakfast and we ate it in the van on the way.
I had a layover in Guangzhou, so the second part (the train being the first) was not bad. The airplane food was tolerable (but hot) and I had my own screen and many movies from which I could select. I watched Up, since I had not seen it in a while and it was the perfect length of the flight. Upon arriving to Guangzhou, I tried to find the gate for the flight to Melbourne. But it was closed off. I did, however, notice another girl who was on the same fight trying to get to her gate. We ended up talking and her name is Vivian. Since she is Chinese, she was able to communicate better with the airport staff. Turns out because we got in so late and our flights were not until the morning, the airport had booked us rooms at a nearby hotel. So we were happy. But we had to wait around for the driver to come get us. In southern China, it is not uncommon for dinner to be at 2 or 3 in the morning. Our driver to the hotel was at such a dinner and so we waited until about 3:30am. Our flights were at 8, so we knew we would only get a few hours of sleep. Finally our driver came and we went to the hotel. Vivian and I shared a room and got a few hours of sleep before we went back to the airport. The hotel did provide a small breakfast and we ate it in the van on the way.
Going back through security and sitting at the gate in Guangzhou was not nearly as stressful as Beijing, especially because I had a new friend. Vivian was going to Cambodia for a week and so we talked about what she was going to do and what I was going to do in Australia, and that when I returned to China and Beijing to top by her place to catch up after our travels. Her plane departed first, but I only had to wait a little while before mine. The flight was nothing special, I still had my own screen and they served us enough snacks and meals. After 10 hours of flying, and what was at that point 36 hours of total travel time, I landed in Melbourne!
After getting off the plane, I exchanged money, went through immigration, bypassed customs since I had nothing to declare, and got a ticket for the SkyBus into the city. The SkyBus shuttle took me to Southern Cross station and from there I tried to figure out the metro but no trains were running to where I was staying. So I took a taxi to the place. Culture note: it is more customary to sit in the front seat instead of the back. I did not know this until a friend mentioned it because in the US, one always sits in the back unless there is a fourth person in the party that has to sit in the front.
Anyway, I got to the place I was staying at in West Footscray (a suburb to the west of Melbourne), got the key to the bungalow and crashed. After almost 40 hours of travel, I was exhausted. I woke up the next morning and decided to take it easy. I stayed around the house and did a little exploring in Footscray. The area is pretty diverse, with many African and Vietnamese communities. I got a SIM card for my phone and was able to connect with my friends.
Anyway, I got to the place I was staying at in West Footscray (a suburb to the west of Melbourne), got the key to the bungalow and crashed. After almost 40 hours of travel, I was exhausted. I woke up the next morning and decided to take it easy. I stayed around the house and did a little exploring in Footscray. The area is pretty diverse, with many African and Vietnamese communities. I got a SIM card for my phone and was able to connect with my friends.
My first look at the Melbourne skyline.
Nighttime view of Melbourne. The wheel above the "Enquire Now" is the Melbourne Star, which is a huge Ferris Wheel where people can look out over Melbourne. It was slightly expensive, so I did not get to go up. But it has also had some technical and mechanical problems in the last few years, so many people were hesitant to suggest it as an attraction.
On New Year's Eve, I tried to find some place to go and celebrate the new year. There were other people living in the house, but they had plans, so I found out that there was a concert and fireworks at a nearby park. I arrived too late for the fireworks (since it was a 9:30 showing for children), but the concert was still going on. It was a cover band for ABBA and they were pretty good, so I stayed until that was over.
On New Year's Eve, I tried to find some place to go and celebrate the new year. There were other people living in the house, but they had plans, so I found out that there was a concert and fireworks at a nearby park. I arrived too late for the fireworks (since it was a 9:30 showing for children), but the concert was still going on. It was a cover band for ABBA and they were pretty good, so I stayed until that was over.
After that, I headed downtown for the midnight fireworks. Taking the subway was one of the most not-so-fun experiences. It was seriously jam packed and as we got closer and closer to downtown, more and more people tried to get in. When the train arrived at Southern Cross, a guy standing next to me needed to get out, so he picked me up and used me as a battering ram to get to the doors. Lucky for me, I had decided to get off there too, so it all worked out...I guess. I followed the crowds to the bridges that go across the Yarra River and decided to stand on one of them and wait. As midnight approached, all of the bridges got full. But finally, when the clock struck midnight, the fireworks went off from the tops of the buildings. In total, there were 22 buildings from which fireworks were shot and I could see about 9 from where I stood on the bridge. It was a neat sight to have a panorama of fireworks and to be in a different country, experiencing many new things. I was a little lonely but I was grateful to have been able to make it there (after the scare at the airport). Afterwards, I took the subway back to Footscray (as they had extended the hours of operation) and I stayed up until about 7 finishing a puzzle and watching Happy Days on TV.
My friends returned to Melbourne after visiting family and so I spent the rest of my time with them. We went to the beach a couple times which was perhaps more fun for me than them. Being from a landlocked state, I have only seen the ocean half a dozen times. So I swam and built sand castles, jumped off rocks into the water, picked up seashells, body surfed in the waves, and had a wonderful time. My friends just wadded in the water and sunbathed. These were the only pictures I took before I put my phone in a baggie to keep it clean.
I also went to a goodbye party for a friend who was leaving Melbourne to work in Perth. It was nice to see him again and to talk with others who I had not seen since October in Nanjing. The party was very nice. Except the mosquitoes. Early in the evening I had gone outside with another girl to talk but after about 30 minutes we had to go back in. Later in the evening the mosquitoes were not as active so everyone went outside and we had good conversation and stargazed. Since this was my first time in the southern hemisphere, I saw so many new constellations, like the Southern Cross. I also got into intense debates with some people about how the constellations "should" look. For example, the Orion constellation is upside down in Australia, but is right-side-up in the northern hemisphere. Or at least that is the paradigm under which I operate. To them, the opposite is true. Also, the stars that make up Ursa Major and the Big Dipper are in a different alignment. Although it really did not matter the shape of the constellations, it was an interesting revelation to hear first-hand what others think of how things "are and should be" that is different from my (American) perspective.
Since the weather was beautiful every day (minus the heat wave), I often took walks and enjoyed the scenery. One day, I also went to a soup kitchen that was free and open to everyone. It was at an old abbey (fitting, right?) and I got in line. They took donations, so I gave my share. It was vegan and I think organic. And the food tasted amazing!!! I wanted seconds, but the line was really long, so I decided against it. After that meal, my friend and I walked around and enjoyed the nature. The abbey also has an open air theatre where movies are shown nightly in the summer but we did not stay.
.
Since the weather was beautiful every day (minus the heat wave), I often took walks and enjoyed the scenery. One day, I also went to a soup kitchen that was free and open to everyone. It was at an old abbey (fitting, right?) and I got in line. They took donations, so I gave my share. It was vegan and I think organic. And the food tasted amazing!!! I wanted seconds, but the line was really long, so I decided against it. After that meal, my friend and I walked around and enjoyed the nature. The abbey also has an open air theatre where movies are shown nightly in the summer but we did not stay.
.
I also went to the Melbourne Museum, which is a natural science museum. They had a 007 James Bond memorabilia exhibit with lots of cool information and props from the movies. There were lots of storyboards and some of the gadgets from Q as well as many of the Bond Girl dresses and costumes. The rest of the museum was well curated and I wished I had more time to see more exhibits.
The Aston Martin used in Skyfall.
The Australian Open was also happening when I was there and I really wanted to go. However, the week that I had planned to go was also during a heat wave. Outside temperatures were at least 100 degrees Fahrenheit. I decided to brave the heat one day, but then they called the Extreme Heat Policy, which closed down almost all of the courts. So, I tried to go another day. but it was $54 to get in the door, and was another $100 to get into the big arenas. As much fun as I think it would have been to say that I went, I could not justify to myself spending that amount of money for only a couple hours of tennis. Instead, I spent the day wandering around Melbourne. It was a very nice day, with blue skies and a nice breeze. I got to see many different sites of Melbourne, like Flinders Street Station, Federation Square, the Botanical Gardens, and the Shrine of Remembrance. I also got to see more of the river front and the boathouses. I also did not realize there is so much history in Melbourne. Every time I tried to quickly look up something about the city, I spent at least an hour learning about other aspects of Melbourne and the surrounding area.
The Australian Open was also happening when I was there and I really wanted to go. However, the week that I had planned to go was also during a heat wave. Outside temperatures were at least 100 degrees Fahrenheit. I decided to brave the heat one day, but then they called the Extreme Heat Policy, which closed down almost all of the courts. So, I tried to go another day. but it was $54 to get in the door, and was another $100 to get into the big arenas. As much fun as I think it would have been to say that I went, I could not justify to myself spending that amount of money for only a couple hours of tennis. Instead, I spent the day wandering around Melbourne. It was a very nice day, with blue skies and a nice breeze. I got to see many different sites of Melbourne, like Flinders Street Station, Federation Square, the Botanical Gardens, and the Shrine of Remembrance. I also got to see more of the river front and the boathouses. I also did not realize there is so much history in Melbourne. Every time I tried to quickly look up something about the city, I spent at least an hour learning about other aspects of Melbourne and the surrounding area.
Flinders Street Station
Full view of Flinders Street Station
Melbourne City Baths. It used to be a public bath house that was meant to deter people from bathing in the Yarra, only to mild success. Now it is a fitness centre and spa.
State Library of Victoria
Federation Square. There was a large screen in the back that shows sports games. Apparently the Square showed the SuperBowl on the screen when it happened in early February. As I talked with people, they were not too impressed with American Football, since there is Australian Football. At least in Victoria, neither rugby or soccer are not very popular. There is still a following, but it is not as large what one might find in Europe or even New Zealand. But they love their cricket! During my stay, the Australian and English national cricket teams were playing each other throughout Australia. There was a game in Melbourne, but the tickets were a little expensive, so I ended up watching the game on TV. Although I had learned the basic rules of cricket in middle school, I got another crash course in cricket during the three weeks I was there. It is actually an interesting game to watch and I enjoyed learning the different variations to the game of cricket that have evolved over the past few decades. The Australian team ended up winning 12 of 13 games in the series.
St. Paul's Cathedral. Apparently I liked taking pictures of it.
Neat building next to St. Paul's.
Melbourne Town Hall. It is the central municipal building for Victoria.
One of the coolest things about Melbourne was all the parks and open areas within the city. Melbourne is Victoria's capital and its only "city," but it did not seem crowded. Rather, it was very laid back and peaceful. The suburbs of Melbourne span out quite a bit, but it was still convenient to use the metro to get in and out of the city.
The Royal Exhibition Centre. It is adjacent to the Melbourne Museum. There was Lego exhibition going on, but it was sold out.
The flag on the top of the dome is the Australian national flag, but the flag on the left is the Australian Aboriginal flag. It was designed in 1970 as a unifying symbol and is an official flag of Australia.
Another cool Melbourne culture aspect is the graffiti culture. Like American graffiti culture, it was a street movement, but unlike the US, a stigma did not grow against it. In fact, many laneways in Melbourne are covered with commissioned pieces. There are other areas of the city where artists are allowed to put up their work and will not be scrutinized by the police or by owners. It was neat to walk around the city and see some of the laneways covered in artwork. Tags (gang or otherwise) are not so acceptable and those caught can be prosecuted, but for the most part, there is a much more laid back attitude and even an embracing pride for the graffiti culture in Melbourne.
The two pictures below are of commissioned works to cover a wall near the river.
Degraves Street is a street with a bunch of outdoor cafes. It is rather narrow, but the environment was friendly. I only walked through and took pictures, but there were lots of cafes and tiny locally owned restaurants.
The river front was a very nice. Many high end malls and hotels are along the river, but there were also street performers and little bars all along the river with music or other forms of entertainment.
Love locks on a bridge.
Cookie Monster playing the bagpipes...including a rendition of Waltzing Matilda.
The boathouses. It made me miss crew...but not getting up at 4:30 in the morning.
Walking around a war memorial park.
Arts Centre Melbourne on the other side of the street.
Sir Edward Dunlop, a renowned surgeon and leader in surgical advancements.
Boer War Memorial
A university in Melbourne is named for him.
Australian Hellenic Memorial that commemorates when ANZAC troops joined Allied forces in Crete and Greece in 1941. The ANZAC troops were highly outnumbered and suffered heavy losses in the early campaigns in Greece. Over 5000 troops were taken prisoner during the campaigns.
The walk around the war memorial park ended with the Shrine of Remembrance. It was initially to commemorate those lost in battle during the Great War, but it has since been established as the central memorial for all ANZAC troops in all wars since 1914. This year marks the 100 year anniversary of the start of the Great War and it will be interesting to see how each country commemorates or remembers it.
25 April is ANZAC Day and it is taken more seriously than Remembrance Day (11 November) in Australia. I tried to figure out why and as far as I can tell, there is more national pride and a small amount of resentment for the fact that although Australia technically has been independent since 1901, it was a part of the British Commonwealth. As such, when the Great War broke out, Britain called on its Commonwealth to supply troops. Thus countries like Canada, Australia, and New Zealand really had no choice but to send troops and supplies. Most ANZAC troops were sent into Anatolia, but others were sent to the Western Front. The Great War served as a time for Australians to really evaluate not what it meant to be "British," but rather "Australian." I think that from 1901 to 1914, a stronger Australian national identity was emerging but during and after the Great War, Australians wanted to separate themselves from being clumped together with Britain. Therefore, ANZAC Day serves as a way to uphold that independence aspect of Australian identity. There was another change in 1931 that made Australia and other Commonwealth nations more independent, however, it was not until 3 March 1986 that the Australia Acts basically made Australia completely independent from the UK. It still remains a part of the Commonwealth, but perhaps in title only.
25 April is ANZAC Day and it is taken more seriously than Remembrance Day (11 November) in Australia. I tried to figure out why and as far as I can tell, there is more national pride and a small amount of resentment for the fact that although Australia technically has been independent since 1901, it was a part of the British Commonwealth. As such, when the Great War broke out, Britain called on its Commonwealth to supply troops. Thus countries like Canada, Australia, and New Zealand really had no choice but to send troops and supplies. Most ANZAC troops were sent into Anatolia, but others were sent to the Western Front. The Great War served as a time for Australians to really evaluate not what it meant to be "British," but rather "Australian." I think that from 1901 to 1914, a stronger Australian national identity was emerging but during and after the Great War, Australians wanted to separate themselves from being clumped together with Britain. Therefore, ANZAC Day serves as a way to uphold that independence aspect of Australian identity. There was another change in 1931 that made Australia and other Commonwealth nations more independent, however, it was not until 3 March 1986 that the Australia Acts basically made Australia completely independent from the UK. It still remains a part of the Commonwealth, but perhaps in title only.
There is still reverence for the end of the Great War. The Shrine was dedicated 11 November 1934, which coincided with the city's centennial celebrations.
The view of the city from the memorial. The tall building on the left is the Eureka Tower, which is the world's tallest residential tower and the southern hemisphere's tallest observation deck. The tallest in the world in the Shanghai World Financial Centre (more on that in the Shanghai post).
The message says:
Let all men know that this is holy ground(.) this shrine(,) established in the hearts of men as on the solid earth commemorates a people's fortitude and sacrifice(.) ye therefore that come after give remembrance
Let all men know that this is holy ground(.) this shrine(,) established in the hearts of men as on the solid earth commemorates a people's fortitude and sacrifice(.) ye therefore that come after give remembrance
Message:
This monument was erected by a grateful people to the honoured memory of the men and women of Victoria who served the Empire in the Great War of 1914-1918.
This monument was erected by a grateful people to the honoured memory of the men and women of Victoria who served the Empire in the Great War of 1914-1918.
Statue in the Legacy Garden of Appreciation. It is an organization for widows and children of veterans.
Royal Botanical Gardens. The plants and scenery were amazing and I was very happy to walk through it and not really hear many city noises.
Hisense Arena, where the tennis was.
The Temple of the Winds is in the Botanical Gardens and it is dedicated to Charles La Trobe, the first governor of Melbourne. He chose the site of the Gardens in the mid-1800s. The rotunda as built in 1901 and overlooks the whole gardens. There is a lot of history and small details to its architecture. There is also a university in the city named for La Trobe.
The Gardens were one of my favourite parts of my visit. I really liked the different plants and the layout of it. It felt like it was someplace out in the middle of nowhere instead of in the middle of a busy metropolis.
One of the last nights I was in Melbourne, I went to an Asian bazaar. Although I had gone to Australia to escape Chinese culture and people, it was not as easy as I thought. I ended up staying with my friends who lived in the suburb next to Box Hill. Box Hill is where the majority of the Chinese population live in Melbourne. I also really tried to avoid Chinese food, but ended up eating Taiwanese food once during my stay. At the bazaar, there were many different Asian ethnic groups, but not many Japanese. Nevertheless, I ate lots of good foods and had a nice time. On the note of food, I ate as much cheese and hamburgers as I could as well as all the other ethnic foods I cannot get here in China.
On 20 January, after three weeks, I had to catch a flight back to China. Needless to say, I was very sad to leave good friends and such a beautiful city. There is plenty more that I did not get to see, but I am hopeful that I can return to Melbourne soon.
One of the last nights I was in Melbourne, I went to an Asian bazaar. Although I had gone to Australia to escape Chinese culture and people, it was not as easy as I thought. I ended up staying with my friends who lived in the suburb next to Box Hill. Box Hill is where the majority of the Chinese population live in Melbourne. I also really tried to avoid Chinese food, but ended up eating Taiwanese food once during my stay. At the bazaar, there were many different Asian ethnic groups, but not many Japanese. Nevertheless, I ate lots of good foods and had a nice time. On the note of food, I ate as much cheese and hamburgers as I could as well as all the other ethnic foods I cannot get here in China.
On 20 January, after three weeks, I had to catch a flight back to China. Needless to say, I was very sad to leave good friends and such a beautiful city. There is plenty more that I did not get to see, but I am hopeful that I can return to Melbourne soon.